Divisional and exact measurement systems for garment cutting by Linthicum William O

Author:Linthicum, William O. [from old catalog]
Language: eng
Format: epub, pdf
Tags: Tailoring
Publisher: New York, Morgan, Comes & Lawrence, stationers and printers
Published: 1872-03-25T05:00:00+00:00

Plate, 4

17

stoopino- or erect tigure, will l)e ])r(Mluced in the Draft.

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It is iiuite a c-oiunmii pi-aetice among Tailors to take tlie breast and waist measure over a Coat ^\ lien measuring for an Over-Sack, or Surtout, whether tlie Coat measured over is thick or thin. It is a l)ad hal.It, as the measures so obtained are very uncertain, for it is preferable to take a neat measure over the Vest, and make the necessary additions. The measure already taken, ISA, ;!4, 27, HA, ■2:\, I'OA, 0-2, .•5(i, ;U, should be increased thus: ISA, 34, 2SA, !•_', lUi, 21, :\:l, .'JS, :3;'.,foran Over-Coat intended to lie wni'u o\cr (xarmeiits of medium thickness. AVhen the Coat is re{[uired k>ose, or for wear o\'er \cry thick under Garments, a<]d three inches to the breast and waist measure, and in the same proportions, to the shoulder and lilade measure. Now let us proceed to Draft Over-Sack from the al>ove t'ularged measui'e, as sliown in Diagram No. Id, on Plate .'{.

Draw base liue A A. From () to 1 and

'2, are 2SA on Divisions D and E, commencing at end of Ruler, marked tlius ^.

P'rom O to M, is 11) inches (half of breast). Draw lin<-s B, C and D.

From 1 to 4, is oS on Division G.

From 2 to ."), is 8S on Division H.

From .-) to ('), is .'>S on Division I.

Fiom ;) to 7, is ;;."> on Divisc>nF, starting from end of Ruler, marked thus sj. A})ply the blade measure from 2 to ~), \2, and contiiuie the same up line E, from 5 to s. Draw line E, from 7 through •> to S, and line F from .") to (_), and line (t from s to O.

From S to '.', is -iSi- on Division C, starting from vnd of Rider, marked thus §.

Fro:n line A, at Id, add two inches for sjiriiig, and form and cut the back. Place O at S, with line F re-ting on line (i, and form shoulder, neck gorge and scye. Di-aw

line II iVoHi <'), at right angles with line C, and form the tVont of Coat, according to taste or the pre\ailing style. When tlie customer is of extra erect or stooj)ing tio-ure, the blatle measure will in<licate the necessary change, and nuist be applied in [)recisel\' the same manner as ah'eaily exi»laint'(I for Diagrams .") and (">, on Plate i', except from ') to S, to \vhich add thiee-fourths of an inch instead of one-fourth or

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